A Simple Definitive Men’s Skincare Guide

As a man I prefer simple things. I want my steak medium rare and my beer cold. The same thing goes for my skincare. However, as there are many different vehicles to drive there are many products available for men’s skincare. But when I look in an aisle at my local store it is and can be very overwhelming. Even for me, and I learn, read, study, educate patients and practice skincare every day. I remember when I was younger and it would be just easier to avoid those aisles entirely, because why would I ask for anyone’s opinion. Especially a woman, whom I assumed had a twelve-step skincare process. It would be too intimidating for me. Plus, I didn’t want to try something that would imply any kind of femininity. I am a man and aren’t men supposed to have crappy skin? With so many options, it can overwhelm the best of us. Your choices will depend on many factors, including what problem you have, what are you looking to accomplish, and personal preference.

For help and clarifying skincare, I am going to generically break it down into several categories so when we walk down the skincare aisle, it’ll be like the Matrix coming into focus and we can make faster, better decisions.

For the most part;

Men’s Skincare can be broken down into four main categories.

1. Moisturizer
2. Sunscreen
3. Problem focused
4. Combination (of the other three)

Usually, men’s skincare products fit nicely into those categories, but there are a few outliers out there. But knowing these four categories will cover 98% of all products out there.

Moisturizer

Yep, good ole skin moisturizer that help keep you from getting dry, cracked, eczema skin. I like to break these further down based on feel. Mainly how greasy does each feel. So, from less greasy to most greasy. The feel will also depend on what type of skin type you have.

The main categories of moisturizer are:

• Lotion
  – Less greasy, easier to apply, usually comes in a pump, good if you live in humid environments (think the Southern states), good if you don’t like the greasy feel.

• Cream
  – Thicker, greasier, better at moisturizing your skin especially if you already have eczema or very dry cracking skin. Better if you live in a dry climate (I’m looking at you Arizona and Colorado). Not the best if you can’t stand anything greasy on the skin especially on your hands.
• Ointment
  – Literally greasy. Think Vaseline. Provides great moisture barrier protection. Great if you are experiencing bad eczema flares or need to protect you skin from the elements or need to put something on a healing wound. Great for your kids that have eczema or atopic dermatitis.

Sunscreen

SPF

• • 15-100. As a recap, SPF means:
    – SPF informs you how long the sun’s UV radiation will take to redden your skin, depending on your skin type, when using the sunscreen exactly as directed versus the amount of time without any sunscreen (in a lab). We cover this in detail under my article under Sunscreen (coming soon).
  • When it comes to sunscreen it is all about what you want. Do you want reef safe? Physical barrier protection? Ease of use? Spray? Cream?
    – When in doubt go SPF 30 and don’t forget to reapply.
  • However, you can wear SPF 1000 if you are not applying it or reapplying it to your skin if you are in direct sunlight, YOU WILL GET BURNED!
  • Normally they come in cream, spray, or liquid.

Problem-focused

Acne

– This one is a beast. There are many different men’s skincare products for acne. I will have a few articles that go into acne in-depth, check those out for a deeper dive. If you look at the active ingredients there are only really 3 types. So, to get an idea you must flip it over and look at the active ingredients. For even more information, check out my articles on acne.

• • • Benzoyl Peroxide
      • Will range in strength. The stronger the Benzoyl Peroxide the more irritating it can be especially on areas such as the face. However, a stronger 10% Benzoyl Peroxide can work effectively for the back, shoulders, and chest.
      • Can come in cream, gel, foam or wash.
      • You have that meeting coming up and you have that one Mt. Everest on your forehead, Benzoyl Peroxide works great as a spot treatment!
        – Benzoyl Peroxide kill bacteria on your skin and within the follicle that can cause acne.
        – In contrast to other topical antibiotics, drug resistance has not appeared to develop with benzoyl peroxide use.

  • Joe Skin Says:

    I know there is information out there about Benzoyl Peroxide breaking down to Benzene (a known carcinogen). However, if you look at Valisure, the lab that performed the experiments. The breakdown was occurring at 50 degrees Celsius for two weeks. So, if you keep your BPO products at 122 degrees Fahrenheit for 2 weeks, you should not use it. Also, interesting to note. The President of the lab Valisure, Mr. Light, that discovered this is listed as an inventor on a patent filed in 2023 for a method to prevent benzoyl peroxide from breaking down into benzene in drug products. Hmmmm. Very interesting…
    • Salicylic Acid
      – Is a class of medications that is known as a keratolytic which helps break down skin cells promoting exfoliation. This can help sluff off skin cells and assists in unclogging of pores for acne.
    • Adapalene 0.1%
      – Topical 3rd generation Retinoid. Retinoids will regulate skin growth and differentiation, helps decrease inflammatory responses and decreases cell production. This is important because that extra cell production mixes with the natural oils in your skin and can cause clogs known as blackheads.
      – Was a prescription known as Differin. However, now available over the counter as of 2016.

Brown Spots

• • Look for men’s skincare products that contain:
    • Retinol
      – Stimulates collagen.
      – Accelerate cell turnover.
    • Kojic Acid
      – Prevents the formation of tyrosine, which is an amino acid that’s needed to produce melanin.
    • Glycolic Acid
      – Works by removing the top layers of dead skin cells.
    • Vitamin C
      – Can hinder melanin production which can reduce dark spots.

Wrinkles

• • • Retinol
      – Anti-wrinkle treatments, improvement of texture, dyspigmentation, dryness, and fine lines

Area of face

• • Eye Cream
    • Its all about the active ingredients and what you are wanting to accomplish. Wrinkles? Puffiness? Color under eyes? Its not a one size fits all. Look for a product and active ingredient that satisfies what you need to do.
    • Antioxidants
      – Antioxidants protect against cell.
      – Ingredients such as vitamin E, vitamin C, and ferulic acid that help prevent damage from environmental factors (like too much sun exposure while watching the L.A. Dodgers lose).
      – Can help decrease puffiness and swelling and puffiness.
    • Retinol
      – A form of vitamin A
      – Stimulates collagen to reduce and prevent lines and wrinkles.
    • Peptides
      – Increases elastin and collagen and elastin to help firm up droopy skin.
    • Hyaluronic acid and ceramides
      – Ceramides are fats that help hold our skin cells together to keep our skin barrier intact. Breakdown of your skin barrier creates allows bacteria to invade and makes your skin lose moisture. This is very important around eyes where the skin is some of the thinnest of your body.
      – Hyaluronic acid is the key molecule involved in skin moisture and has the capacity to attract and hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.
    • Niacinamide and kojic acid
      – These ingredients will help brighten skin by reducing activity in pigment-producing cells. Thus, helping you not look like a zombie with dark haloes around your eyes.

Combination products of any of the three categories

Examples:

• Moisturizer/Sunscreen
• Moisturizer/Retinol
• Etc.
  – This category is a combination of the previously three mentioned. There are many men’s skincare products that contain sunscreen and moisturizer, moisturizer, and retinol etc. etc. This category is fantastic if, like me, you don’t want multiple bottles of things sitting in my bathroom countertop taking up space. Plus, it makes it easier to take with you when you travel. However, you must really look and analyze what it does or what the active ingredients are. If you are unsure of utilizing a combination product maybe start with a particular brand and use their moisturizer. If you like that, then use their moisturizer with sunscreen. It’s a great way to transition to combination products.

It’s always a good idea to have a problem or an area in mind when going to the store to search for men’s skincare products. That way you can save energy and spend less time looking at all the active ingredients. Most types of products hang out together in the stores usually in the same location. Get familiar with names and brands. If you are interested in trying something out, check the travel section at the store. Sometimes they’ll have travel sizes so you can try it and see if you like it or not. Then you will have only spent a buck or two and saved that money you would have spent for a cold beer or medium-rare steak. Until next time, get SOM!